Grafton: Hidden Ghost Town Treasure
There’s a reason they are called “Ghost Towns”. The people and businesses have long since disappeared, but the memories and shells remain like ghosts not knowing where to go. The western United States is riddled with them. Some have completely vanished, while others can still offer a glimpse into history. Decrepit and hollow, one can still imagine what the streets might have been like one hundred and fifty years ago. The echoes of voices long since silenced still whisper in the wind just as a tumbleweed blows past reminding us the wind carries those voices away into the empty landscape.
I first discovered the tiny, yet still scenic ghost town of Grafton, Utah several years ago when I was looking through a book of Utah Ghost Towns. A photo on the front cover showed an charming little schoolhouse, resting along a dirt road. It had once housed dozens of children and was the center of a community and its way of life.
History of Grafton
In 1859 Brigham Young ordered his followers of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints to the southern Utah Territory. They were looking for a warmer climate to start growing and processing cotton. Slavery had even been legalized in the territory just seven years earlier.
By 1864 28 families had moved into the town. Two years later the residents relocated temporarily to Virgin when the Black Hawk War broke out. The fear of Indian attacks caused the townsfolk to seek a more protected community.
The problems with the Indians was the least of the issues, however. The Virgin River ran along the north side of the town. Spring run off and flash floods from heavy downpours endangered the town. Few families returned. By 1890 only four families remained. A few years later the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints abandoned it. The last resident left in 1944.
Hollywood Comes to Grafton
Coming out of the silent film era, Hollywood was beginning a new phase of filmmaking. In 1929 director Irving Cummings brought his production of the western In Old Arizona to the town of Grafton. It was used in the filming, and became the first talking picture to be filmed outdoors. The picture was a big hit and won Warner Baxter an Academy Award for Best Actor at the second Oscar ceremony.
Forty years later Paul Newman and Robert Redford accompanied director George Roy Hill to the ghost town to film part of the smash western Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. The iconic scene where B.J. Thomas sings “Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head” showcases Paul Newman and Katherine Ross as they bicycle through the scenic town while the heavenly spires of Zions National Park loom in the near distance, became a classic cinematic moment.
Though that was Grafton’s most famous moment, it has also been featured in a couple of little known films from the 1980’s. Child Bride of Short Creek and The Red Fury featured the town in 1981 and 1984, respectively.
Grafton Today
In the last several decades there has been a real effort to preserve the historic town. THough the road is still dirt and uneven to get to there, it is still well travelled enough for tourists to visit. Be careful, however in Winter and early Spring when there is a lot of moisture in the ground. The clay like mud is almost like quicksand. I ventured there in February once and had to leave my car about a mile away and walk through the clay to reach it. Needless to say that was the last place I was ever able to wear those shoes.
Anyone who wants to visit, I recommend taking the time to venture the short ride. It is actually fairly easy to reach. Traveling on Interstate 15 north of the city of St. George, Utah, take exit 16 headed to Hurricane. Follow the signs on Highway 9 toward Zion National Park. Stay on this route for about 20 miles. You will go through the small towns Virgin. Once you get to Rockville watch for a right turn off the highway close to the end of town. There should be a sign that directs you to cross a small metal bridge. Then keep driving on the dirt road for about 2 miles until you reach the town.
There is an old cemetery still there and the old schoolhouse, as well as a few homes. It is worth wandering from place to place. I try and return every few years to see and experience what just might be the most scenic ghost town in the country.
For further information, please visit: