The one weekend a year when my love of movies, history and travel converges together is Oscar Weekend. At first I considered sitting this year out. Last years happened in early February 2020, just as the COVID-19 Pandemic was about to strike. Little did I know the next fourteen months would be a daily struggle.
Around October and November of last year things were looking pretty grim. The Pandemic was raging. People weren’t really doing what needed to be done. Here in Utah a lot of people refused to follow the guidelines. We had a sitting president that offered less than zero leadership on the matter. As the year progressed towards it welcome end, I was very doubtful that the California trip would happen, even though the awards had been pushed back to the end of April.
Things changed in mid January on many levels and we finally had a plan for the vaccinations that were needed. The new Utah Governor stepped it up on a local level, and federally thins improved greatly. Still, I decided I would not make the trip if I was not fully vaccinated. Not because I worried so much about myself, but I certainly am not selfish enough to want to put other, more vulnerable people at risk of contacting the virus.
On February 28th I received my first Mederna shot. My second came on March 28th. Two weeks later I was ready to start getting my life back and do a little living.
View from my Bellagio room
I rented a car with my sister and brother and left Logan, Utah on Wednesday morning. First stop: the Belagio in Las Vegas. We stayed the night and then set off for Las Angeles, staying in our usual Sunset Plaza Hotel on Sunset Boulevard.
Immediately it was clear that this year was very different. California was still very much in lockdown from the virus. Restrictions were beginning to be lifted on restaurants and stores, but just barely. The hotel was much more quiet and offered very little in room service or housekeeping (though a tip envelope for the staff was still present in the room). Indoor eating was limited. I was happy, though that everyone was wearing their masks and making the effort to do what was right.
The usual Oscar attractions were also very different. The Dolby Theatre was closed up, except for the filming of some musical numbers. The awards instead would be broadcast from Union Station in downtown Las Angeles. The smaller venue would limit the number of attendees.
We chose a few outdoor activities this time around to aid in distancing. All of us love the 1960’s sitcom The Andy Griffith Show. The opening sequence of Andy and Opie at a lake for some fishing and a bit of pebbles skipping is a slice of classic pop culture. We decided to take the short drive and see if we could locate the exact spot from the starting.
Franklin Canyon Reservoir. photo by author
We took Mulholland Drive to the Franklin Canyon Drive. The road winds its way down a deep canyon to Franklin Canyon reservoir. This was the place. The first thing we saw a lone, scared looking coyote walking along the road in front of us. We then parked and took a trail around the reservoir, finally locating the spot we believe was the actual spot. Such a peaceful location at the edge of a huge city. Not many tourists flock here, but I highly recommend it as place to enjoy nature and take a break…and maybe whistle a few notes.
Cute but scared. Coyote on the train. photo by Tracey Smith
Keeping the outside theme alive, we also visited Hollywood Boulevard and took a stroll from Santa Monica Beach down to Venice Beach. Though still teaming with some tourists, the vibe of these places was very different from previous years. The pandemic and its bruising of the California economy was evident. I have never seen so many homeless tents and sleeping bags. In recent years the city had made an effort to clean up both places. The efforts were quite noticeable. This year it was sadly different. Urine soaked sidewalks and homeless desperation littered the street and beach. The toll the virus had taken on everyone over the last year, truly saddened me. I truly pray that things will get better from here. Visiting the Hollywood Forever Cemetery was a much more beautiful and peaceful experience.
Venice Beach
Since the Oscar broadcast was at a new location, we decided to visit Union Station and the adjacent Olvera Street. I had never visited this oldest street in the city before. It was so much fun shopping the traditional Hispanic shops and eateries. The Union Station was also an impressive building with its own fascinating history. Though scaled down, the area was still busy with cameras and red carpet being set up. It’s very exciting.
Top: Union Station. Bottom: Olvera Street. photos by author
This year we ate at places we really enjoy. Nothing really new for us this time. Micheli’s, El Coyote, the Polo Lounge, the Rainbow Grill, Farmers Market. We frequented these places often. They were all good. That’s why we come back.
We watched the Oscar Telecast from the hotel room on Sunday night. All of my choices won except I was hoping for Ri Ahmed for Best Actor for The Sound of Metal and Carey Mulligan for Best Actress for Promising Young Woman. But the winners were deserving as well. The show itself was a bit rocky, especially when the big hope for an emotional award for Chadwick Boseman fell flat on its abrupt face.
Because of the theater closures, the notoriety of the films was lower. Not many people had seen them. The rating for the awards were down as well. I don’t care about any of that. It’s not a popularity contest. We had some wonderful films in 2020. Box office and rating are unimportant to me. None of that really matters. It’s quality over quantity.
The next day we dropped the car rental off at the Burbank Airport and flew home into the new airport in Salt Lake City. It was a unique trip with some challenges and some real pleasures. That said, I hope it is the only year where we to struggle with all the limitations. I hope and pray that we are back to normal 2022.
Driving around Hollywood and West Los Angeles there is a changing landscape. History is important in the city, but not as important as money. Little by little the Hollywood of yesterday is being torn down so more mega-mansions and high end boutiques can take there place. It’s becoming more and more difficult, but if you look hard enough there are still remnants of what has been constant throughout the years. There are still some holdouts that can be enjoyed by a new generation just as they were in Tinseltown’s bygone era.
Nestled in between neo eateries I was able to find a few restaurants that have stood the test of time. They were once a place where starlets met with agents and seven figure deals for movie went down. Mostly they are places that had some importance in the entertainment world. I am writing about five places that should take tourists or film lovers back in time. One can imagine the Hollywood elite dining for a glamorous Saturday night on the town, or taking a break from filming to catch a bite. So lets step back in time and dine with the stars.
Barney’s Beanery in Hollywood opened in 1927. Photo by the author.
There are several Barney’s Beanery’s around southern California, but the one that sets along Historic Route 66 on Santa Monica Blvd is the original. Actually the very first location was opened in Berkeley in 1920 by John “Barney” Anthony. Seven years later he decided to move his restaurant to the historic highway running through Los Angeles as it headed to the end of the line at the Pacific Ocean.
Celebrities, artists, writers, and movie production workers began frequenting the bar. In the 1930’s through the 1950’s it was a frequent hangout for some of Hollywood’s biggest stars. Humphrey Bogart and Lauren Bacall considered it “their” place. Judy Garland, Clark Gable, Rita Hayworth, Errol Flynn were all regulars.
In the 1960’s the clientele shifted. The nearby Sunset Strip had become a haven for the hippy culture. Just a few blocks away, Barney’s attracted several rock stars. One was Jim Morrison, leader of The Doors. He visited often. One time he was even kicked out of the place for urinating on the bar.
Another regular was Janis Joplin. She even carved her name into one of the tables. That table top is still there and on display on the ceiling over where she sat. She actually ate her last meal here. She was seen dining shortly before she headed back to the Landmark Motor Hotel on Franklin Avenue where her body was found dead the following day in Room #105 of a heroin overdose.
In the early 1990’s filmmaker Quentin Tarantino sat at his favorite booth and wrote the screenplay for his film Pulp Fiction.
The Beanery isn’t without its share of controversy. The exact date when the trouble started is unsure, probably just prior to 1953. The owner put up a sign behind the bar among the various license plates. The sign read: ‘Fagots – (sic) Stay Out! ” John Anthony had regularly let his hatred of gays be known. Ironically, Barney’s Beanery is right in the middle of the heavily gay population of West Hollywood. The sign came and went, finally being taken down permanently in 1984 when the mayor of West Hollywood, the City Council and a group of activists walked in and physically removed it.
Pop Culture: Parts of Oliver Stone’s The Doors was filmed here. There is also an illustration showing the restaurant on the Big Brother & the Holding Company’s album Cheap Thrills. On TV “Columbo ” Peter Falk often ordered a sandwich from the restaurant, though it was never featured on camera.
Just north of CBS Studios and Farmer’s Market is Fairfax Village. A staple of the area since 1948 has been the famous Canter’s, a Jewish-style delicatessen. It is open 24 hours a day, seven days a week except on the Jewish holidays of Yon Kippur Rosh Hashanah.
Walking into Canter’s is like stepping back in time. The interiors look like it hasn’t been updated in decades, which is one of the great appeals of it. Sitting there I could easily imagine the late night crowds that frequent the place.
Because of its location and hours, it quickly became a hangout for people involved with the entertainment industry. In the 1960’s it was a place where rock stars and hippies held late night gatherings. In the bar area adjacent to the deli musicians such as Fiona Apple and The Wallflowers got their start. The current owner Marc Canter wrote a book about his high school friend Slash and his band Guns N Roses. In 2014 President Obama surprised the guest when he stopped by for a bite to eat.
The Canter’s menu offers not just the usual deli favorites. It also is a pretty straight forward diner with lots of sandwiches and meat and potato entrees. They also offer their famous Matzah Ball Soup. I wasn’t quite brave enough to try it, but my brother did and said it was good. The prices are very reasonable as well.
Pop Culture: Several TV shows have filmed there including Mad Men and Curb Your Enthusiasm. The song “Oh Daddy” by the Turtles mentions Canter’s as well.
El Coyote opened on March 3, 1931. Photo by the author.
When a restaurant has been opened as long as some of these classic diners in the Hollywood area, there are bound to be some stories that will live on. The El Coyote features some very tasty Mexican Food, and has kept the dark and authentic atmosphere that it has likely always had. Due to it’s small connection to a notorious murder scene, it is often drawn into conversations about Hollywood crimes.
El Coyote first opened in 1931 on the corner of La Brea and First. Twenty years later it moved to its present location on Beverly Blvd. Within its proximity to CBS Television studios and other movie studios, it became a place for many celebrities to eat.
On the evening of August 8, 1969 Abigail Folger, Wojciech Frykowski, Jay Sebring, and a very pregnant Sharon Tate visited the El Coyote, which was Sharon’s favorite restaurant. Following their meal they drove along Beverly Boulevard and back to the house Tate was renting with her husband director Roman Polanski in Benedict Canyon. Polanski was out of town filming a movie in London.
The foursome arrived home around 10:30 pm. Shortly after midnight on August 9th four members of the Manson Family entered the home and murdered the Tate and her house guests , plus one other person, Steven Parent, who was visiting a friend in the guest house. He was shot in the driveway as he tried to leave. Any worker at the restaurant will gladly point out the table where Tate and her company ate that night.
The murders shocked the nation and an entire generation was affected by the heinous crime. Unfortunately this wasn’t the one moment of notoriety for the restaurant. In 2008 it was boycotted by the gay and lesbian community due to the owner’s daughter and manager Marjorie Christoffersen, a devout Mormon. She had donated money to Proposition 8, the ballot initiative to block gay marriage. She apologized to the LGBT community and offered a free lunch, though she continued to support Prop 8.
I’ve eaten at the El Coyote several times over the years and the food has always been excellent, and the service very good. They are open most everyday, but keep in mind they close early on Oscar night
Pop Culture: Feature in the documentary, Six Degrees of Helter Skelter.
The Formosa Cafe has been a Hollywood staple since it opened its doors in 1925 on the corner of Santa Monica Blvd and Formosa Avenue. The Chinese flavored cuisine quickly emerged as a favorite for the movie industry crowd. It is very close to several film studios.
In 2015, the owners gutted the historic interiors and changed everything to a more modern style. Showing that the public doesn’t always want change, an outcry arose among those who craved old-Hollywood style. The new version lost business with all the negative publicity.
In December of 2016 the property closed down without notice, some thought permanently. Luckily, in 2017 the property was picked up by the 33 Group and is being renovated. The new owners want to restore it completely to its glamour days of the 30’s and 40’s. It is scheduled to reopen in the Spring of 2019.
Few restaurants have a history of celebrity clientele like The Formosa. It is said that Frank Sinatra spent many nights in the 1950’s here at the bar, pining away for Ava Gardner. Some of the eatery’s other famous regulars are: Marilyn Monroe, Marlon Brando, Brad Pitt, John Wayne, Bugsy Siegel, Warren Beatty, Dean Martin, Judy Garland, Clark Gable, Humphrey Bogart, Grace Kelly, Jack Benny, Elizabeth Taylor…just to name a few.
I learned of the renovation recently when I returned there to eat and found it closed down. I hope the new owners are able to return this landmark to its original splendor. It is a place that Hollywood doesn’t want to lose.
Pop Culture: The films Swingers, L.A. Confidential, Still Breathing, and The Majestic features scenes shot here. It was also used in the television series Bosch.
Micheli’s, the historic Italian Restaurant. Photo by the author.
In 1949 Carmen and Sylvia Micheli pulled their funds together and opened this historic restaurant that is just half a block south of Hollywood Blvd. Carmen used recipes that had been handed down to him from Sicily. They hoped to create the first pizzeria in Hollywood.
The place became a hit among the celebrities of the day and the tourists who flocked to the famous street. The interior has remained almost unchanged for years. In fact the booths that are still used came from another historic restaurant. When the famous Pig ‘N Whistle closed in 1949, Micheli purchased the booths. The image of a pig holding a whistle can still be seen carved into the seat backs. The Pig ‘N Whistle would again open, but not for fifty years. In 1999 it was restored and is still open around the corner from Michel’s on Hollywood Blvd.
Frank Sinatra seemed to really get around and Micheli’s of course became one of his many hangouts. In fact he reserved the same booth in a corner and up a few steps. Appropriately, there is a giant photo of Sinatra that decorates the exterior wall outside of the restaurant.
Lucille Ball learned how to toss pizza here for an episide of I Love Lucy, and she frequented the place as a patron often. Other regulars were: Richard Burton, Dean Martin, Sal Mineo, Marilyn Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, John F. Kennedy, and even the Beatles.
I make it a special event to eat at Micheli’s each year when I visit Los Angeles during Oscar Weekend. Stepping into the building is like embracing Hollywood’s bygone era. There is always a piano player on the upper level, playing classic tunes from another time. Occasionally the waiter or waitress will pause in their order taking and break into song. Most of the time they sing as well as they wait on the tables.
It’s not just a place to eat, but it is a dining experience. Don’t rush through the meal. Sit back and enjoy the ambiance. You can almost believe that you are at a happening nightspot in 1950.
Pop Culture: The film Knocked Up featured a scene shot at Micheli’s. Also the television shows Dexter and Mob City included the location.
There are several other restaurants in Hollywood that also preserve the past. As mentioned Pig ‘N Whistle on Hollywood Blvd. Mel’s Drive-In on Highland and Carney’s on Sunset are fun throwbacks. The Rainbow Bar and Grill in West Hollywood and Lucy’s El Adobe on Melrose are also recommended. It’s even worth spending a little extra and having a Sunday morning breakfast at the famous Polo Lounge in the Beverly Hills Hotel. Make sure to make a reservation.
I want to showcase one more place. If anyone has the time, take the short drive into Laurel Canyon and visit the Canyon Country Store. It is virtually unchanged from the era when Mama Cass lived in the basement and Jim Morrison owned the home directly behind it. They were regulars, as were countless residence of the canyon. Mick Fleetwood even met Lindsay Buckingham here and invited him and Stevie Nicks to join Fleetwood Mac.
Lauren Canyon Country Store. Photo by the author.
It’s not a restaurant, but they have a great coffee spot to sit outside and watch the traffic speed by on the winding Laurel Canyon Blvd as it twists its way to the San Fernando Valley.
It is located at 2108 Laurel Canyon Blvd, Los Angeles, CA
Los Angeles is a haven for wonderful eateries, if you can handle the traffic to get there. I have found that they are worth the headache of maneuvering through the busy streets. I hope these few cafes and restaurants and coffee shops might motivate a few folks to give them a try.
I suppose you would have to be hiding under a rock to not know that each February or March the movie industry gathers for its biggest night of the year. My family and I are huge film buffs and have been following the Oscars for years. I have been watching all the Best Picture nominated films all the way back to the first Academy Awards ceremony in 1929 at the Roosevelt Hotel on Hollywood Boulevard.
Every year since 2007 we have made the trek from my cold northern Utah home to Southern California in order to experience Tinseltown during its greatest weekend. I was led to believe that I soak up the warm sunshine and bask in the glow of the beaches. The truth is that California is almost always experiencing a cold spell when I vacate there. Luckily, this year it was beautiful, though a little cool.
That wasn’t the case at all during the drive from Logan, Utah to Los Angeles. We stayed in Las Vegas at the Luxor. A rare and powerful snowstorm hit. I’ve been to Las Vegas dozens of times and have never experienced anything like this. The snow fell heavily for hours cause a threat to close all schools. I had to laugh a little since it took several feet of snow on the roads to even cause a whisper about closing schools where I am from.
View from my hotel room at the Luxor in Las Vegas. Photo by the author.
Arriving in Los Angeles
Despite some scary roads covered in snow around Baker, California, the next day arriving in L.A. the weather cleared and I welcomed the rays of the sun. It was like California should be.
The first night I spent some at The Grove, a sleek outdoor shopping center next to the Farmer’s Market. I enjoyed a nice meal at the outdoor eating area in the market. I recommend stopping by the market on Fairfax Avenue to anyone visiting Hollywood for the first time.
I should mention that for the last several years I have found the best place to stay is the Sunset Plaza Hotel at 8400 West Sunset Blvd. Though still a little pricey, it offers the best deal for the weekend. It’s central location makes it easy to drive to the Dolby Theatre, or just as quickly to Beverly Hills. The traffic is always a pain, but I’ve gotten quite used to it.
Our third floor room had a nice view of the courtyard where the pool is surrounded by pots and awnings covered with roses. It’s quite delightful and honey. This time I had a nice straight shot view of
Night view of L.A. from the Sunset Plaza Hotel. Photo by the author.
The J. Paul Getty Museum
I always try and do something new each year during Oscar Weekend. This time we decided to venture to the J. Paul Getty Museum. I almost went before but last years movie, All the Money in the World about Getty motivated me to seek out the fine art showcase. I am so glad I did. It is a stunning, multi-building showcasing one of the finest art collections in the world. It sets high on the hills overlooking downtown L.A. and a wonderful view of the Pacific Ocean.
Getty Museum. Photo by author.
What a thrill to view original works by Monet, Renoir, Pissaro, Gauguin. I was especially interested in seeing work by Vincent Van Gogh since Willem Dafoe received an Oscar nomination for portraying the tortured artist in At Eternity’s Gate.
It’s scary to think about how close the horrible fires last year came to this museum and the destruction of people’s homes and property. We should do more as a nation to help all those people affected by these disasters. That is a true national emergency.
The Independent Spirit Awards
The Spirit Awards are held on Santa Monica Beach. Photo by the author.
Along with the Oscars, I have had an interest in Independent films. Having working for the past twenty years at the Sundance Film Festival, I feel it is the heart of the film industry. While Hollywood is touting their teen oriented blockbusters that will play well in the nation’s heartland, the true inspiration and thoughtful filmmaking comes from those with small budgets who risk much to make a work of art. I truly appreciate this and am glad that awards are still given out for quality rather than rewarding publicity machines.
A couple of years ago I joined Film Independent. It helps advance and support those independent minded filmmakers who give us movies with a point of view, and movies that inspire real emotions. When I joined that allows me to be a voter in the awards. It’s nice to know that true film lovers are allowed help in choosing the winners. I didn’t attend the ceremony but was able to watch the Red Carpet Arrivals.
Most of the nominees were in attendance. Best Actress nominee Glenn Close arrived with her dog in tow. Her fellow nominee Toni Collette hurried into the tent shortly later. They were nominated for The Wife and Hereditary, respectively. Both were fantastic, though I leaned to Ms. Collette, personally.
Also on the carpet were: Armie Hammer, Joaquin Phoenix, Molly Shannon, Amanda Seyfried, Richard E. Grant, Alfonso Cuaron, Marissa Tomei, Adam Diver…just to name a few. Luckily, the day at the beach was beautiful and sunny. The high was in the mid 60’s. A far cry from the 20’s back in Logan!
Toni Collette on the Red Carpet. Photo by the author.
Armie Hammer. Photo by the author.
I won’t go into all the winners and losers and nominations on this blog. You can read a complete list of the victors here.
Oscar Night
I must say that my trip to Los Angeles isn’t entirely about the Oscars. It is about the experience of being in Hollywood and enjoying the movie industry’s biggest night. The energy and the atmosphere of the town is very exciting. I don’t attend the Oscars. I watch them comfortably in my hotel room. I think I have the best seat in the house. I like to cheer on my favorite films. I don’t need my picks to win. It’s would be nice, but generally the winner is not my choice. That’s fine. I don’t need any validation for my opinions.
I was happy to see Regina King win the Best Supporting Actress for If Beale Street Could Talk. She seems like a nice lady and has paid her dues for years. My choice to win was actually Rachel Weisz for The Favourite.
I did agree with the Best Supporting Actor winner, though he should have been in the Best Actor race. Mahershala Ali was fantastic in Green Book. I also would have been happy with Adam Driver winning for BlacKkKlansman. I did like the Driver’s film better than Ali’s.
Rami Malek did a fantastic job as Freddie Mercury in the good, but flawed Bohemian Rhapsody. I did think that Christian Bale should have been the winner, however, for Vice. He really became the part of Dick Cheney, though Vice was also a bit flawed. Bradley Cooper would have been my second choice for A Star is Born.
Everyone thought that Glenn Close was going to be the winner for her performance as the suffering woman who stands by her man in The Wife. Her acting is top notch, but the film isn’t Oscar worthy. I wish she had won years ago for Dangerous Liaisons. My choice for Best Actress actually did win. Olivia Colman was spellbinding as Queen Anne in The Favourite.
I was totally in line with the Academy when they awarded the Best Director trophy to Alfonso Cuaron for his exceptional film Roma. Quite simply: He deserved it. It is a wonderfully realized, stunning work of art. I can’t praise it enough in showing a film about people we generally look through. Rarely does a movie give us a moment that feels this authentic.
Needless to say, I wanted Roma to win the Best Picture Award. I was shocked that it didn’t, even though I have reservations about a streaming film winning. Quite simply, Roma was the best film of the year. Green Book is a good movie, but mostly a film that voters likely felt good about voting for.
Hollywood Boulevard the night before the Oscar ceremony. Photo by the author.
I am a bit troubled by the emergence of Netflix as an Oscar contender. Where is the separation of television movies and theatrical movies? Where does streaming fit in to this? I think it is a dangerous trend that needs to be addressed. I’m not saying that streaming companies are not eligible for consideration, but some adjustments need to me made. As it stands now, Netflix needs hardly any theater exposure. Plus they will hold onto that film and never allow true movie collectors to buy a blu ray or DVD of the film. Should the company decide to pull the film off their site, it is gone until they bring it back. This is a very bad and poor trend in filmmaking. For that reason alone I am considering cancelling my membership.
I believe that the Academy should take steps in remedying this issue. I believe that a film should have a two or three month theatrical run before it is streamed to be considered for awards. It should also be under contract to be released on DVD or Blu Ray within a year of its streaming.
When a director makes a movie they are intending it to be seen on a large screen. That is the hope for any filmmaker. It is possible that Roma lost the Oscar to Green Book because of this. Voters, hopefully, are not ready to give their highest award to a film that only made a brief, week-long showing in a theater house.
Nothing Lasts
Like any good thing, a vacation must come to an end. If it didn’t, it would no ,longer be a vacation. Though it is still over 50 weeks away, I am already trying to think of places to visit in Southern California during next year’s Oscar Weekend. Thanks for coming along with me on trip.
