It’s time to think about traveling again! The long, long, long winter has, it seems, finally given up its strangehold on us all, especially here in Northern Utah. In Logan, Utah, the most northern metro area of the state, many tourists travel through town on their way to various parks and recreational areas. If you want to take the scenic byway through beautiful Logan Canyon on your way to Yellowstone, the Tetons and Jackson Hole Wyoming, then you should also take a moment to stop and have breakfast or lunch at a little diner known as Herm’s Inn.
Herm’s Inn. Photo by the author.
Getting There
Located at 1435 Canyon RD in Logan, UT, Herm’s Inn isn’t the easiest place to find. If you are traveling north from Salt Lake City or Brigham City, you will enter the city of Logan. Stay on Main Street until you get to Center Street. Turn East on Center and continue through the lights until the road dips down over a small hill. Then turn left onto the next street named Canyon Rd. Then simply remain on that street until you arrive at Herm’s at the mouth of the canyon.
History of the Building
When Herm’s was built in the early 1900’s it was on the only route from town to Logan Canyon. The road passed by it on the way to the Bear Lake and Yellowstone HWY 89 route. Herman and his wife Lizzy Johnson immigrated from Sweden. They built the diner since it was the last place to fill up on gasoline and get a quick lunch before heading through the canyon. That made it also the first place to get gas and a bite once you drove the long distance through the canyon.
The cafe stayed in business for years. The roads changed, however. HWY 89 shifted to the hill above the store, bypassing it completely. Now people drove on a four lane street onto the bench of Logan, passed Utah State University and then into Logan Canyon.
Business dwindled and the diner/store eventually closed due to lack of customers. It had been a staple of Logan dining from 1926 to 1948. The building remained empty following the closing. There had been talk for quite some time of tearing it down. But, instead it remained, decaying a little each year.
Rebirth
In 2012 Ryan Bird, a Salt Lake City man who had been working in restaurants for over ten years, took a gamble and decided to bring the place back to life. It took a lot of work to restore the building, but eventually it was reopened and has become a gathering place for locals as well as tourists who are looking for a unique place to have breakfast or lunch.
I go there for breakfast almost every Sunday morning. Unlike “Angie’s”, the other favorite diner in town, “Herm’s seems to cater to the university crowd. A much more liberal, intellectual, organic clientele meet to talk about their travels, or the ever heated political climate.
I’ve found that you need to get there around 9 am or 9:30 at the latest since it gets busier as the morning progresses. At 10:00 it explodes. Since Herm’s doesn’t take reservations the wait can be up to 45 minutes.
The inside is like stepping back in time. It offers two room in the upstairs. Both are good. There is also a basement with extra tables. I try and avoid sitting down there since I always feel cut off from the activities. It feels more like a cave there and is now as pleasant. It does work for larger crowds, however.
Photos by the Author.
Parking in the residential neighborhood was a big problem in the beginning. The homeowners around the diner were constantly complaining, even posting “No Parking” signs in front of their houses. That has all been fixed when Herm’s bought one of the homes and tore it down. They built a parking lot in its place.
Hours and Menu
One drawback to Herm’s is that they are only open Sunday Thru Saturday 7:00 AM to 1:50 PM. They do not serve dinner. They often do private parties or university events at night. They recently added a nice outdoor sitting area with lights and a fireplace. You can only really enjoy it during one of these parties since there is never a fire going in the day. Herm’s is also available for catering.
The food I haven’t mentioned yet. It is always good. I usually build my own breakfast, but there is a big variety offered. Here is their MENU.
Happy Travels
I write this blog in mid-April which means that travelers and tourists and adventure seekers will soon be hitting the roads again. Thousands of people pass through Logan, Utah on their way to various sightseeing excursions. If you a passing through this area and want to see the spectacular scenery in Logan Canyon on your way, stop at Herm’s for your breakfast and lunch on the way. It will be a place you will remember and look back on with fondness. Happy Travels Everyone!
There’s a reason they are called “Ghost Towns”. The people and businesses have long since disappeared, but the memories and shells remain like ghosts not knowing where to go. The western United States is riddled with them. Some have completely vanished, while others can still offer a glimpse into history. Decrepit and hollow, one can still imagine what the streets might have been like one hundred and fifty years ago. The echoes of voices long since silenced still whisper in the wind just as a tumbleweed blows past reminding us the wind carries those voices away into the empty landscape.
Grafton, Utah today. Photo by the author.
I first discovered the tiny, yet still scenic ghost town of Grafton, Utah several years ago when I was looking through a book of Utah Ghost Towns. A photo on the front cover showed an charming little schoolhouse, resting along a dirt road. It had once housed dozens of children and was the center of a community and its way of life.
History of Grafton
In 1859 Brigham Young ordered his followers of the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints to the southern Utah Territory. They were looking for a warmer climate to start growing and processing cotton. Slavery had even been legalized in the territory just seven years earlier.
By 1864 28 families had moved into the town. Two years later the residents relocated temporarily to Virgin when the Black Hawk War broke out. The fear of Indian attacks caused the townsfolk to seek a more protected community.
The problems with the Indians was the least of the issues, however. The Virgin River ran along the north side of the town. Spring run off and flash floods from heavy downpours endangered the town. Few families returned. By 1890 only four families remained. A few years later the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Saints abandoned it. The last resident left in 1944.
Hollywood Comes to Grafton
Coming out of the silent film era, Hollywood was beginning a new phase of filmmaking. In 1929 director Irving Cummings brought his production of the western In Old Arizona to the town of Grafton. It was used in the filming, and became the first talking picture to be filmed outdoors. The picture was a big hit and won Warner Baxter an Academy Award for Best Actor at the second Oscar ceremony.
Scene from In Old Arizona 1929.
Forty years later Paul Newman and Robert Redford accompanied director George Roy Hill to the ghost town to film part of the smash western Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid. The iconic scene where B.J. Thomas sings “Raindrops Keep Falling On My Head” showcases Paul Newman and Katherine Ross as they bicycle through the scenic town while the heavenly spires of Zions National Park loom in the near distance, became a classic cinematic moment.
Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid
Though that was Grafton’s most famous moment, it has also been featured in a couple of little known films from the 1980’s. Child Bride of Short Creek and The Red Fury featured the town in 1981 and 1984, respectively.
Grafton Today
In the last several decades there has been a real effort to preserve the historic town. THough the road is still dirt and uneven to get to there, it is still well travelled enough for tourists to visit. Be careful, however in Winter and early Spring when there is a lot of moisture in the ground. The clay like mud is almost like quicksand. I ventured there in February once and had to leave my car about a mile away and walk through the clay to reach it. Needless to say that was the last place I was ever able to wear those shoes.
Anyone who wants to visit, I recommend taking the time to venture the short ride. It is actually fairly easy to reach. Traveling on Interstate 15 north of the city of St. George, Utah, take exit 16 headed to Hurricane. Follow the signs on Highway 9 toward Zion National Park. Stay on this route for about 20 miles. You will go through the small towns Virgin. Once you get to Rockville watch for a right turn off the highway close to the end of town. There should be a sign that directs you to cross a small metal bridge. Then keep driving on the dirt road for about 2 miles until you reach the town.
There is an old cemetery still there and the old schoolhouse, as well as a few homes. It is worth wandering from place to place. I try and return every few years to see and experience what just might be the most scenic ghost town in the country.
I can hardly believe that this is my 21st festival. I volunteered for the first fifteen years and have been on the Sundance staff for the last four. This year I worked about 75 hours a week and managed to see about 17 films. With my new Canon EOS 5D Mark IV camera, I took hundreds of photos. I am sharing several of them here.
For anyone who hasn’t heard of it, or don’t know what it is; the Sundance Film Festival is the United States largest film festival, and the biggest for independent film in the world. It takes place each January in the posh ski resort town of Park City, Utah.
The view of Mount Timpanogos from the Sundance Resort.
Robert Redford started the Sundance Institute back in 1981 and has been the chairman ever since. Some of the world’s greatest directors have started out here, from Quentin Tarantino to Christopher Nolan to Damien Chezelle. Noteworthy films that have premiered include: Memento, Boyhood, Four Weddings and a Funeral, Whiplash, Call Me By Your Name, Get Out, Hereditary, The Blair Witch Project, Reservoir Dogs, The Usual Suspects, American Psycho, just to name a very few.
The 2019 festival was one of the most successful years to date. I saw some really great films. Hopefully many of these films with make their way to theaters later in the year. Here are some reviews:
The Report
This was probably my favorite film that I saw this year. It stars Adam Driver as Daniel Jones, who lead the investigation into the torture of prisoners following 9/11. Appointed by Diane Feinstein (played by Annette Bening) his investigation takes him to exhausting and disturbing revelations.
At the film’s core is a sense of the way Washington really works. It offers an inside look at negotiations and compromises that fuel the back hallway discussions used by politicians to gain leverage for their own agendas.
Adam Driver in “The Report”
The script by writer/director Scott Z. Burns is tight. It is so intricate and detailed. It must have taken a great deal of time and patience to put it together. Adam Driver manages to establishes himself as a first rate leading actor. Following his Oscar nominated performance in BlackKklansman this year, he seems on the verge of becoming one of the important actors of his generation.
Adam Driver at the premiere in Park City.
Annette Bening.
The film premiered on January 26, 2019 at the Eccles Theatre. Adam Driver, Jon Hamm, Annette Bening and Jennifer Morrison were in attendance.
Though it had several moments depicting disturbing images of torture, it fell short of reveling in it. The crowd was mostly enthusiastic as it became one of the most talked about pictures. Within a few days it had been purchased by Amazon Studios for a cool 14 million dollars in worldwide rights.
It is scheduled to be released into theaters in late 2019 in order to capitalize on its Oscar potential.
Jon Hamm and Jennifer Morrison at “The Report” premiere.
Blinded by the Light
Aaron Phagura and Nell Williams
Directed by Gurinder Chadha, “Blinded by the Light” is an exhilarating and contagiously entertaining story based on true events. Javed, played by Viveik Kalra, is a Pakistani teen living in England in 1987. His world is difficult trying to fit in with a world that was very different from where he and his family had migrated. Then a fellow Paki student introduces Javed to the music of Bruce Springsteen. Suddenly, in the strangest ways, the Boss’ music speaks to him. It transforms his life and he learns to take control.
Javed clashes with his headstrong father who believes it is an abandonment of his home country to pursue such materialistic entertainment. Though Springsteen’s music permeates throughout, it is the relationship between Javed and his father that is at the center, and it is here that we get the emotional rewards.
The music from Bruce and the way it is used is heaven sent. The director is able to show the audience just how it is able to affect a young man like Javed in ways that no one could have imagined. It’s not so much the music that transforms Javed, but rather the way he feels empowered by the lyrics themes of struggle and survival in difficult times.
“Blinded by the Light” was purchased by New Line for 15 million dollars, a record amount for a film at the festival. I highly recommend it to audiences who enjoy nostalgic coming-of-age films with a killer soundtrack.
The hills of Park City, Utah
Extremely Wicked, Shockingly Evil and Vile
The hardest ticket to get at this year’s festival was the film that divided the audiences. Zac Efron stars as the charming and infamous serial killer, Ted Bundy. There was plenty of controversy surrounding the screening. Mostly because some critics and viewers felt that with Efron’s portrayal, the filmmakers were glamorizing the horrific killer.
Kaya Scodelario and Zac Efron in Extremely Wicked...
Focusing very little on the actual murders, the film concentrates its storyline on the capture and trials of Bundy. It is told from the point of view of the women who chose to stay by his side and protect him from. Lily Collins plays his fiancee who refused to believe he is capable of the horrible accusations being leveled at him from multiple states.
Having watched the film, I still found Ted Bundy to be a manipulative deviant. Zac Efron is a better looking, and a much more sculpturesque person than Bundy. Despite that, he did a surprisingly effective job of showing this monster who is able to hide his wickedness away from the general public. There are some moments when women in the courtroom swoon at his smile. I know this did actually happen, but on screen it does seem a bit over-the-top.
It took a few days, but the movie eventually sold for about 9 million dollars to Netflix. That’s good in that it will find an audience. I personally don’t like it when Netflix picks up films that should be seen in the theaters. Once they get a hold of them they just feel less important. Now the movie will not get an important theatrical run and will never make its way to blu ray or DVD. That’s a shame. Still, the streaming company is a good avenue for independent films to find an audience that might not always be possible.
Lily Collins during the Q&A
Zac Efron at the premiere of Extremely Wicked, Shockingly Evil and Vile.
Clemency
The Grand Jury Prize Winner in the U.S. Dramatic Competition was Clemency , written and directed by Chinonye Chukwu. This solid and thoughtful drama manages to blur the lines between compassion and justice, resulting in a realism that few films are able to achieve.
Alfre Woodard in Clemency
Alfre Woodard stars as Bernadine Williams a hardened prison warden who struggles to balance her work and her home life. As the years have flown by, it gets tougher to separate the two. Her drinking increases and her emotions unravel when she witnesses a botched execution. Her nervousness increases as a second execution approaches for a man who just might be innocent of the crimes he has been convicted of.
The film is stark and depressing, and all the more effective because of it. Alfre Woodard gives her best performance and is mesmerizing in her intensity. It’s another movie that should be around once the Oscar race heats up at the end of 2019.
Brittany Runs a Marathon
Brittany Runs a Marathon was the U.S. Dramatic Audience Award Winner. This film really represents what makes Sundance unique among film festivals. There was very little buzz about the film going in. It features a first time director in Paul Downs Colaizzo, and a cast of actors that aren’t well known. Yet it became one of the most talked about films.
Brittany, played by Jillian Bell, is unhappy with her life. She hates her job and hasn’t been in a relationship for years. To make matters worse all her friends think of her as the fat one. Finally she has had all she can stand. Deciding to lose the weight she sets a goal to not just run in the New York Marathon, but to finish it. She learns that its not as easy as believing you can do it. She can transform her body, but the emotional scars she carries around are harder to heal.
The reason the film works is because everyone feels like a “Brittany” in one way or another. Few people can truly say they are happy with their lives. We all feel like we are inadequate in some way. That makes her all the more relatable. The film asks difficult questions, but is able to present itself as a comedy. It’s rare to find a movie that is funny, but is able to deal with serious issues.
Amazon Studios purchased the film for $14 million.
Late Night
Also selling to Amazon Studios for a reported 13 million was the comedy Late Night, written by and co-starring Mindy Kailing. The film was the opening night premiere and continued to play well throughout the festival.
Katherine, played with gusto by Emma Thompson, is a legend in the television comedy world. She has won several Emmy’s and has been a staple every night with her successful late night talk show. Her ratings, however have begun to decline and her demographics are not competitive. The network decides to replace her with a young, hipper host.
Deciding to not go down without a fight, Katherine decides to hire Molly (Kailing) as a new writer. Molly is the first female writer to ever work on the show, and Katherine hopes it will add a much needed boost and save her show.
The film is a little comic gem. It works so well because of the relationship and banter between Kailing and Thompson. They work so seamlessly together, finding the likeability and the faults in their characters. The combination makes for a winning cinematic gem.
Mindy Kailing, clearly excited about Late Night‘s Sundance success.
Little Monsters
The Midnight Movie section of Sundance has become one of the most successful sections of the festival. Get Out, Hereditary, and Buried all went on to successful runs.
Little Monsters has potential to become a break out B-Movie hit. It is funny enough to be campy and thrilling enough to be even a little scary. Oscar winning actress Lupita Nyong’o plays a kindergarten teacher who is devoted to her young students. The kids are excited because they have a camping field trip coming up.
That excitement soon turns to horror when a government experiment has gone awry. Within hours the kids are being stalked by flesh eating zombies, and it becomes the teacher’s job to protect them.
Little Monsters
Josh Gad, best know as the voice of Olaf in Disney’s Frozen, plays a kid’s show host who turns on the kids in an attempt to save himself. The film also stars Alexander England as the uncle of a kid with severe allergies. He must turn his slacker personality around to help save the children.
The picture manages to effectively tread on the tricky balancing wire of being funny and scary. It even surprised me by how much depth of character it has, and by the strong pull on the heartstrings. It actually earns the emotional satisfaction for which it strives.
Velvet Buzzsaw
In 2014 writer/director Dan Gilroy made the superb thriller Nightcrawler, starring Jake Gyllenhaal. It earned Gilroy an Oscar nomination for best screenplay. With Velvet Buzzsaw he teams up again with Gyllenhaal for another offbeat suspense film that is difficult to categorize.
The Los Angeles art scene is at the center. An unknown artist is found dead. His broken down apartment is full of precious and unique paintings that he had worked a lifetime to create. Art dealers descend on his work, fighting tooth and nail for the opportunity to represent his work.
The greed, however has a price. The art pieces are cursed with the spirit of the dead artist and he seeks revenge upon those who have taken his paintings for their own benefit.
Gyllenhaal, along with Rene Russo, John Malkovich, Toni Collette, Tom Sturidge, and Billy Magnusen play those greedy souls whose lives become in danger the more they try and control the inventory.
Jake Gyllenhaal at the Velvet Buzzsaw premiere.
Not everything works as well as it did in Nightcrawler, but Gilroy is still able to spin a twisted tale where the vampires all get what they deserve in creative and disturbing ways. Netflix acquired the film prior to the festival. It made it’s debut on the streaming service just days after its world premiere at Sundance.
Apollo 11 and Knock Down the House
Sundance wouldn’t be complete without the mention of its documentaries. Dozens of world class docs screen each year. I was able to watch two fascinating films that show us a reality that many of us might not be aware of.
CNN Films has produced a remarkable doc about the Apollo 11 moon landing. With no narration at all, it has unearthed hours and hours of footage of the lift off and of the first man walking on the moon.
Today we are so used to having our cell phones out, filming everything that comes along. That makes this doc that more stunning. The rare shots are a thrill to see, and gives a new perception of what was going on behind the scenes of this historic event. It is a must see for anyone interested in history or science.
The second documentary of note has a much more timely message. Knock Down the House follows four Progressive Democratic women as they try and break though the incumbent wall during the 2018 primaries. It argues that the people in this country want a change, but wonders if they are willing to take a stand to enact the changes needed to move the country in a different direction.
The interesting about this is that director Rachel Lears didn’t know how the film would end. The results were far from clear when filming began. The problem with filming a doc is that often the success of it depends on what the unforeseen outcome might be. Luckily for the filmmakers one of the women they were following was Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez, a political star in the making.
“Knock Down the House”
Each year there are simply too many films to mention all of them. Overall, this was one of the best years for films at the festival. There were 14,259 submissions this year, the most ever. The quality seemed to improve a bit over last year.
I hope everyone has enjoyed a few of the highlights from Sundance this year. It was a good start to 2019. Here’s hoping the year gives us a bunch of great films to enjoy, bicker over and despise throughout the coming months.
